The 2020 "Ferryman" Riesling is sleek and suntanned, a bit showy, the palate has a plushness and texture that turns heads despite the light body. The freshness of the finish comes as a surprise after how ripe the aromatics are.

Story: These wines are an exploration of technique and terroir. Grapes are hand picked and the whole cluster pressed together in a single press load and the juice is separated between free run and pressings. From this point on they are handled by a totally different one oxidized and aged in stainless steel before going into tirage. The other native fermented and barrel aged for 23 months before being bottled. Does the vineyard connection remain, does technique overrule it, can we ever separate people, and process from place.

BUYING GUIDE- WINE ENTHUSIAST 

90 Entelecheia 2020 The Ferryman Riesling - Honeyed citrus, peach pit and pineapple rind comprise the heady aromas of this classic Kabinett-styled Riesling from a new, small batch Seneca Lake label. It doesn’t shy away from acidity, but with 23 grams of residual sugar to balance, it wears it well. The concentrated citrus and stone fruit flavors linger long on the finish, begging for a salty cheese beside it. —C.P.